New Zealand Wind Grass Care (Anemanthele lessoniana)

This ornamental grass prefers bright light with some protection from harsh midday sun.

• Provide 4–6 hours of direct morning sun with light afternoon shade, or bright filtered light all day, especially in warmer regions.
• New Zealand Wind Grass tolerates partial shade but foliage color is less vivid and clumps may open or flop in very low light.
• In hot, dry summers, protect from strong sun between 12–4 pm to prevent leaf scorching, yet avoid deep shade that leads to weak, sparse growth.

This grass prefers evenly moist, free-draining soil rather than constant wetness or long dryness.

• Water when the top 3–5 cm of soil feels dry, soaking the root zone and then allowing excess to drain away fully.
• Use well-drained soil or a sloped site; chronic sogginess leads to root rot, yellowing leaves, and a thinning center, especially in heavy clay.
• Reduce frequency in cool, wet seasons and increase during hot, windy periods; dry, rolling leaf tips and browning edges signal underwatering, while limp, yellowing foliage suggests overwatering.

This species prefers mild conditions and handles a range of temperate climates when established.

• Optimal growth occurs around 60–75°F (16–24°C), with good color development and steady foliage renewal in these temperatures.
• Mature clumps usually tolerate brief drops to about 15–20°F (-9 to -6°C), though foliage may burn; mulch crowns in colder areas to protect roots.
• In hot regions, it copes with 85–90°F (29–32°C) if soil moisture is maintained and the site is not reflective or exposed to intense late-afternoon heat.

This grass handles a broad humidity range but grows best in moderately moist air.

• Aim for 40–60% humidity; typical outdoor and most indoor levels are usually adequate for New Zealand Wind Grass.
• It tolerates dry air, but prolonged humidity below 30% can cause browning tips and increased leaf drop.
• Increase humidity locally by grouping plants, placing containers near other greenery, or using a pebble tray without letting roots sit in water.

Anemanthele lessoniana prefers light, free-draining soil that still holds some moisture.

• Use a sandy or loamy mix with 30–40% organic matter such as compost to support steady growth.
• Ensure sharp drainage by blending in coarse sand or fine grit and avoiding heavy clay that stays wet.
• Keep pH slightly acidic to neutral, roughly 6.0–7.0, as strongly alkaline soils can reduce nutrient uptake.
• Improve aeration in dense soils by working in well-rotted compost and coarse materials, and avoid compacted or waterlogged spots.

This species adapts well to container growing when given sufficient root space and drainage.

• Choose a wide, stable pot to support its arching habit and prevent it from tipping in wind-exposed positions.
• Select a container material with moderate weight, such as ceramic or thick plastic, to balance moisture retention and stability outdoors.
• Raise the pot on feet or bricks so drainage holes stay clear and excess water can escape quickly after rain or irrigation.

This ornamental grass grows well in modest soils but benefits from light feeding in active growth.

• Use a balanced slow-release fertilizer or light compost top-dressing in spring as new growth starts.
• Feed every 6–8 weeks in spring and summer at half-strength to avoid lush, floppy foliage on New Zealand Wind Grass.
• Skip synthetic fertilizer in fall and winter when growth slows, to prevent weak, cold-tender shoots.
• Always water before and after feeding to reduce root burn and help nutrients move into the soil.

Thoughtful pruning keeps Anemanthele lessoniana tidy and maintains its arching form.

• Best timing is in late winter or very early spring before strong new growth begins.
• Comb or cut out dead, broken, or heavily faded blades with gloved hands or sharp shears.
• Thin congested tufts lightly to let light and air reach the plant base, supporting fresh shoots.
• Avoid cutting the whole clump hard to the ground, which can delay recovery and flowering.

This grass is usually grown in the ground but can be transplanted or moved in containers when crowded.

• Look for roots circling the pot, water running straight through, or slowed growth as cues to move it.
• Plan transplanting or up-potting for early spring or early fall, avoiding heatwaves or hard frost.
• In containers, shifting to a slightly larger pot every 2–3 years is usually enough for healthy growth.
• Handle the root ball gently, loosening only tight outer roots, then water thoroughly and shade for a few days to limit stress.

New plants are most often raised by division, with seedlings sometimes used to bulk up plantings.

• Divide mature clumps in early spring when new shoots are just emerging for best establishment.
• Lift the clump, then split it into sections, each with healthy roots and several fans of foliage.
• Replant divisions at the same depth in moist, well-drained soil and water steadily until rooted.
• Sow fresh seed in trays in fall or early spring, keeping the mix lightly moist and cool for steady germination.

This grass is moderately cold hardy and usually needs only light winter attention in most mild climates.

• Tolerates brief frosts but tips may scorch in prolonged freezes below about 15–20°F.
• Apply a 5–8 cm mulch around the root zone in late fall, keeping mulch off the crown.
• Leave faded foliage over winter to insulate the crown, then clean it up in late winter.
• In colder regions, grow in containers and move to a sheltered, frost-free but bright spot until spring.