Palestine arum Care (Arum palaestinum)

Also known as: solomon's lily, black calla, black arum
Palestine arum

About Palestine arum

Palestine arum, Arum palaestinum, is a tuberous perennial from the eastern Mediterranean, often grown for its unusual dark spathes and strong scent. It produces arrow-shaped leaves and a hooded flower structure that surrounds a central spike, giving it a distinctive, architectural look in the garden.

This plant naturally occurs in rocky, seasonally dry habitats, where it experiences wet winters and dry summers. It can be moderately challenging, as it dislikes waterlogging, needs a dry rest period, and benefits from careful attention to drainage and watering. A sheltered spot with bright but not scorching light and well-drained soil usually supports healthy growth, and learning how to care for Palestine arum helps it thrive over many seasons.

Main Plant Requirements

Care Difficulty

Moderate Care

Light Preference

Partial Shade

Water Requirements

Moderate Water

Temperature Preference

Warm Climate

Hardiness Zone

8–11

Soil Texture

Loamy, Sandy, Organic-rich

Soil pH

Slightly acidic (6.5–7.0), Neutral (7.0)

Soil Drainage

Moist but well-drained

Fertilization

Minimal (feed rarely)

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How to Care for the Palestine arum

This species prefers bright, indirect light with some mild direct sun during cooler hours.

  • Provide 3–5 hours of morning sun with light shade or dappled light from late morning onward, especially in hot summers.
  • Palestine arum tolerates partial shade, but in too much shade leaves elongate, flowers reduce, and foliage may flop.
  • Avoid harsh midday and afternoon sun in warm climates, which can scorch leaves; in winter, slightly brighter exposure helps compensate for short days.

This tuberous plant prefers evenly moist but never waterlogged soil during active growth.

  • In spring and early summer, water when the top 3–5 cm of soil feel dry, letting excess drain completely to protect the tuber from rot.
  • During dormancy, reduce watering to light, infrequent sips or rely on natural rainfall, keeping the soil barely moist, not dry and dusty.
  • Watch foliage for cues: yellowing, soft stems, and a sour smell suggest overwatering, while drooping, thin leaves and dry soil indicate underwatering in Arum palaestinum.

This plant prefers mild, Mediterranean-like temperatures and dislikes both hard frost and extreme heat.

  • Aim for active growth temperatures of 60–75°F (16–24°C), which support steady leaf and flower development.
  • The tuber may survive short dips to about 25–28°F (-4 to -2°C) if soil is well mulched, but repeated or deep freezes can kill it.
  • In hot regions, growth slows when temperatures exceed 90°F (32°C); provide shade and mulch to cool the root zone and reduce stress.

This species grows well in typical indoor humidity if extremes are avoided.

  • Aim for 40–60% humidity, similar to most heated homes.
  • It tolerates short dry spells, but very dry air may crisp leaf edges and slow growth.
  • Increase humidity locally with a pebble tray or by grouping plants rather than misting, which offers only brief benefits.

Arum palaestinum prefers loose, humus-rich soil that drains freely yet holds moderate moisture.

  • Use a mix of roughly 50% peat-free compost, 30% fine bark, and 20% perlite or coarse sand for aeration.
  • Target a slightly acidic to neutral pH, around 6.0–7.0, which supports root activity and nutrient uptake.
  • Ensure water drains from the root zone within minutes; soggy, compacted, or clay-heavy substrates encourage rot.
  • In heavy native soil, grow in raised beds or large containers filled with the airy mix to improve structure and oxygen availability.

This species is suitable for container growing and responds well to a deep, stable pot.

  • Choose a pot deep enough to accommodate the tubers with 5–8 cm of mix below them so roots can spread downward.
  • Use a heavier clay or ceramic container outdoors to reduce tipping from tall flower stalks and wind.
  • Set the container on feet or pot risers so drainage holes stay clear and excess water exits rapidly after rain or watering.

This species grows from nutrient-storing tubers and benefits from modest, controlled feeding rather than heavy fertilization.

  • Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer (for example 10-10-10) or a light top-dressing of compost at the start of the active growing season.
  • Feed outdoor clumps once each spring; container-grown Palestine arum can receive a light dose every 6–8 weeks while in full growth.
  • Dilute any liquid fertilizer to 1/2 strength to avoid root and tuber burn, especially in pots with limited soil volume.
  • Stop feeding once foliage begins to yellow and enter dormancy, and do not apply fertilizer during winter rest.

Pruning needs for Arum palaestinum are light and focus on hygiene rather than shaping.

  • Best time for cleanup is after flowering or as foliage begins to fade at the end of the growing season.
  • Remove dead, yellowing, or diseased leaves at the base using clean, sharp scissors or pruners to limit rot and fungal issues.
  • Thin out crowded, collapsing foliage to improve air flow and reduce moisture sitting on leaves and soil surface.
  • Do not cut healthy green leaves hard, since they are needed for tuber energy storage and next season’s flowering.

This tuberous aroid prefers stable planting and only occasional disturbance when clumps become crowded or containers overfilled.

  • Look for roots circling the pot, tubers pressed against container sides, or reduced flowering as signs it needs a larger space.
  • Schedule transplanting or repotting during late summer to early fall dormancy, when foliage has mostly died back and tubers are resting.
  • For containers, plan to move to a slightly larger pot every 3–4 years, using well-drained, humus-rich soil and firm but not deep planting.
  • Handle tubers gently, keep them slightly moist but not waterlogged after moving, and shade from intense sun for 1–2 weeks to limit stress.

New plants are most reliably produced by division of mature tubers rather than by seed.

  • Divide clumps in late summer or early fall during dormancy, when foliage has died back and tubers are easy to access.
  • Lift the clump, separate firm, healthy tubers with at least 1 growth bud, and discard any soft or diseased tissue.
  • Replant divisions at the same depth in well-drained soil, spacing them to allow air flow and future expansion of the clump.
  • Keep soil lightly moist and temperatures mild during re-establishment; intense heat or waterlogging reduces survival and sprouting.

This plant is moderately cold tolerant in mild climates but its tubers dislike prolonged freezing or saturated winter soil.

  • In USDA zones around 8–9, in-ground plantings usually overwinter if soil drains well and frost is brief.
  • Apply a 5–8 cm mulch layer over the root zone in late fall to insulate tubers and buffer temperature swings.
  • In colder areas or frost-prone containers, lift tubers or move pots indoors to a cool, frost-free spot with barely moist soil.
  • Avoid heavy watering in winter, since cold, wet conditions around dormant tubers strongly increase rot risk.

Care Tips

Support heavy spathes

Install short, discreet stakes or small hoop supports around the clump before flower stalks elongate so the large, heavy spathes stay upright and are less likely to snap in wind or rain.

Use deep, cool mulch

Apply a 5–7 cm layer of organic mulch such as shredded bark or leaf mold over the root zone to keep the tubers cool, conserve moisture, and buffer against rapid temperature swings in late spring.

Rotate clumps periodically

Every 3–4 years, lift and divide congested clumps in late summer dormancy, replanting only the firm, healthy tubers to maintain vigorous flowering and limit disease buildup in the same soil pocket.

Manage flower odor

If the flower scent is undesirable near seating or doors, grow plants in large, movable containers and shift them a few meters away during peak bloom, returning them once the inflorescences fade.

Monitor tuber health

During dormancy, inspect stored or recently lifted tubers for soft spots or mold, discarding any compromised pieces so caring for Palestine arum in subsequent seasons starts with clean, disease-free stock.

Common Pests and Diseases

Aphids

This pest often clusters on tender flower stalks and undersides of leaves, sucking sap and distorting new growth. Symptoms include sticky honeydew on foliage and reduced vigor, especially around emerging inflorescences.

Solution

Remove heavily infested flower stalks or leaves and discard in the trash, then wash remaining foliage with a strong but gentle stream of water to dislodge insects. If needed, apply insecticidal soap or a ready-to-use horticultural oil, repeating every 5–7 days until new growth appears clean, and avoid overfertilizing, which encourages soft, aphid-prone shoots.

Spider mites

These insects favor dry, warm conditions and can colonize the undersides of Arum palaestinum leaves, causing stippling, dull coloration, and fine webbing between petioles and leaf undersides. Symptoms include slow decline and a dry, rough look to foliage rather than obvious chewing damage.

Solution

Increase humidity around the plant and hose or shower leaves thoroughly, focusing on the undersides to remove mites and webbing. For persistent problems, use insecticidal soap or a light horticultural oil, applied to both leaf surfaces every 5–10 days, and improve air movement to make conditions less favorable for mites as part of long-term Arum palaestinum care.

Leaf spot (fungal)

This disease produces dark, water-soaked or tan lesions on leaves that may enlarge and merge, leading to yellowing and premature leaf drop. Symptoms include spotting that starts on older leaves, especially in crowded, humid growing conditions.

Solution

Promptly remove and discard spotted leaves and any fallen debris around the plant to reduce fungal spores, then water at soil level rather than on the foliage. Improve spacing and airflow, avoid overhead watering in late day, and if the plant is repeatedly affected, use a labeled copper or broad-spectrum fungicide during periods of cool, wet weather.

Bacterial soft rot

This disease causes a foul-smelling, mushy breakdown of corms and lower petioles, often starting at wounds or poorly drained spots in the soil. Symptoms include collapse of leaves, wet brown tissue at the base, and rapid deterioration of affected parts.

Solution

Dig up and discard any soft, foul-smelling corms and the surrounding soggy soil, then improve drainage and avoid planting in areas that stay wet or compacted. When dividing or handling corms, use clean tools, allow cut surfaces to dry before replanting, and water only when the top of the soil has begun to dry to reduce bacterial spread.

Slugs and snails

These pests feed on tender Arum palaestinum leaves and new shoots, especially in cool, moist conditions under mulch or groundcover. Symptoms include irregular holes, shredded edges, and silvery slime trails on or near the plant.

Solution

Hand-pick slugs and snails in the evening or early morning and remove hiding places such as dense mulch directly against the corms. Use iron phosphate slug baits labeled for ornamental use, placed around but not touching the plant, and maintain a cleaner soil surface to reduce daytime shelter sites.

Interesting Facts

Carrion-mimicking fragrance

The inflorescence produces a strong scent reminiscent of decaying organic matter, which attracts fly pollinators that are drawn to carrion in its native Eastern Mediterranean habitats.

Heat-producing floral spike

During anthesis, the central spadix can generate mild heat through increased respiration, helping volatilize its odor and making the scent plume more detectable to insect pollinators.

Dark maroon floral chamber

The spathe forms a dark maroon to nearly black inner surface that visually mimics a cavity of decaying material, guiding flies into the floral chamber where pollination takes place.

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Did you know?

In parts of the Levant, the plant has long been collected from the wild and used in traditional diets, with the toxic raw tissues carefully processed by cooking and leaching to reduce acrid compounds before consumption.

FAQs about Palestine arum

Lack of flowering usually comes from insufficient light, overly rich nitrogen fertilizer, or bulbs that have not gone through a cool rest. Crowded clumps may also flower poorly and benefit from lifting, dividing, and replanting every few years.

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