hare's-foot fern Care (Davallia canariensis)

hare's-foot fern

About hare's-foot fern

Hare's-foot fern, Davallia canariensis, is an epiphytic fern valued for its soft, finely divided fronds and distinctive furry rhizomes that creep over the soil or pot edge. These fuzzy “feet” store moisture and give the plant a sculptural, textural look.

In nature it grows on rocks and tree trunks in the Canary Islands and nearby regions with mild, humid conditions. This background helps explain its preference for gentle light, steady moisture, and very airy, well-drained growing media.

It is moderately easy to grow indoors when humidity and watering are consistent, but it can decline quickly if allowed to dry out fully or sit in soggy soil. Understanding how to care for hare's-foot fern mainly means balancing moisture, air circulation, and indirect light.

Main Plant Requirements

Care Difficulty

Moderate Care

Light Preference

Bright Indirect Light

Water Requirements

Keep Soil Moist

Temperature Preference

Tropical / Frost Sensitive

Hardiness Zone

10–11

Soil Texture

Loamy, Peaty, Organic-rich

Soil pH

Acidic (5.5–6.5)

Soil Drainage

Moist but well-drained

Fertilization

Light (every 4–6 weeks)

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How to Care for the hare's-foot fern

Davallia canariensis prefers soft, indirect light that mimics dappled woodland shade.

  • Provide 3–5 hours of bright, filtered light per day, such as light through sheer curtains or beneath open tree canopy.
  • Tolerates partial to full shade but fronds become sparse and elongated if light stays very low, so move hare's-foot fern slightly closer to a brighter window or brighter outdoor spot if growth weakens.
  • Avoid harsh midday sun, especially in summer; morning sun before 10–11 a.m. is usually safe, but direct afternoon sun can scorch fronds.

This fern needs steadily moist but not saturated soil to maintain healthy fronds and rhizomes.

  • Water when the top 2–3 cm of soil feel dry, using enough water so it drains freely from the pot or through the planting area without pooling.
  • In spring and summer, expect to water more often as growth and evaporation increase; in fall and winter, reduce frequency but never let the root zone dry out completely.
  • Yellowing, limp fronds and a sour smell suggest overwatering and poor drainage, while crisp, browning tips and very light, shrinking fronds indicate underwatering.

This species thrives in mild, frost-free conditions with stable temperatures.

  • Ideal growing range is 60–75°F (16–24°C), which supports steady frond production and healthy rhizomes.
  • Avoid temperatures below 40°F (4°C); brief dips near this level may damage foliage, and hard frost can kill the plant.
  • In hot weather above 85°F (29°C), provide extra shade and humidity and avoid hot, drying drafts from heaters or reflective walls to prevent stress and leaf scorch.

This fern prefers moist air and reacts quickly to very dry conditions.

  • Aim for 50–70% humidity, as hare's-foot fern fronds thin and crisp at the tips when air stays drier.
  • Keep it away from heating vents and fans, which accelerate water loss from the fronds and rhizomes.
  • Increase humidity with a pebble tray or nearby humidifier rather than misting, which evaporates too fast to be useful.

This fern needs a loose, airy, organic-rich medium that drains quickly yet holds some moisture.

  • Use a mix of 40% fine bark, 30% peat or coco coir, and 30% perlite to mimic fibrous, humus-rich forest substrate for Davallia canariensis.
  • Ensure water drains through within seconds; if it pools on top, lighten the mix with more perlite or bark to improve aeration.
  • Keep pH slightly acidic to neutral, around 5.5–7.0, avoiding strongly alkaline materials like large amounts of lime or wood ash.
  • Do not use heavy garden soil or dense potting compost that compacts, as this suffocates the shallow rhizomes and leads to rot.

This species is very suitable for containers and hanging baskets.

  • Choose a wide, shallow pot so the creeping rhizomes can spread over the surface rather than a deep, narrow container.
  • Select a slightly porous pot material, such as unglazed clay, if the mix stays wet longer than 3–4 days after watering.
  • Position hanging containers where the fronds can drape freely without brushing walls or furniture, which can damage delicate leaf tips.

This fern benefits from light, consistent feeding rather than heavy applications.

  • Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10) diluted to 1/4–1/2 strength for hare's-foot fern in active growth.
  • Feed every 4–6 weeks during spring and summer when fronds are expanding.
  • Skip or reduce feeding to 1 light dose in fall and winter, especially in low light.
  • Avoid compost-heavy mixes touching rhizomes, and flush the pot with plain water every few months to limit salt buildup.

Pruning Davallia canariensis focuses on hygiene and maintaining a neat, airy frond canopy.

  • Best time is late winter to early spring, before vigorous new frond growth begins.
  • Use clean, sharp scissors or small shears to remove dead, yellowing, or damaged fronds at the base.
  • Thin out old, crowded fronds to improve light penetration and air movement through the plant.
  • Avoid cutting healthy furry rhizomes; shaping is done mainly by selective frond removal.

This species prefers slightly tight quarters, so repot only when clear signs of crowding appear.

  • Check for roots circling the pot surface, rhizomes overflowing edges, or slowed growth as cues to repot.
  • Plan repotting for spring, every 2–3 years, when new fronds are just starting to emerge.
  • Choose a shallow, wide container and a loose, well-drained mix; handle rhizomes gently to limit stress.
  • Shift to the next pot size up, keep rhizomes near the surface, water lightly, and maintain high humidity for 1–2 weeks.

Division of rhizomes is the most practical method for home propagation of this fern.

  • Carry out division in spring when new frond nubs are visible on healthy rhizomes.
  • Lift the plant gently and separate sections with 2–3 growing points using a clean knife or pruners.
  • Plant divisions in shallow, wide pots with airy mix, keeping rhizomes half-exposed on the surface.
  • Maintain high humidity, bright indirect light, and evenly moist (not soggy) substrate until new fronds establish.

Winter care focuses on frost avoidance and stable indoor conditions rather than heavy intervention.

  • This fern is frost-sensitive and should be kept above 50°F, ideally 60–70°F in winter.
  • Move container plants indoors before night temperatures drop below 50°F, placing them in bright, indirect light.
  • Keep soil just slightly moist, reduce feeding, and avoid cold drafts from windows or vents.

Care Tips

Mount on Substrate

Grow the fern in a shallow, wide pot or mounted on a wood slab with sphagnum so the furry rhizomes can creep over the surface instead of being buried, which greatly reduces rot and encourages dense, even growth.

Rhizome Positioning

When repotting, gently arrange the rhizomes so they radiate outward like spokes from the center of the pot, leaving their upper surfaces exposed, which helps the plant fill the container more evenly and prevents crowded, decaying sections.

Targeted Cleaning

Every 1–2 months, use a soft brush or gentle shower to remove dust from fronds and rhizomes, which improves gas exchange and reduces hiding spots for spider mites and scale.

Moisture-Zone Check

Probe several spots around the pot with a finger or moisture meter, as the outer soil ring often dries faster than the central root zone in this species, and adjust watering so no area stays consistently wetter than the rest.

Seasonal Growth Review

At least once a year, check for bare or weak spots in the clump and lightly trim dead fronds, then rotate the pot and adjust its position to balance light exposure, which keeps the plant symmetrical and supports long-term success in caring for hare's-foot fern.

Common Pests and Diseases

Scale insects

This pest attaches to fronds and rhizomes as small brown or tan bumps, feeding on sap and causing yellowing and overall weakening of the fern. Symptoms include sticky honeydew on fronds and sometimes sooty mold growth on the residue.

Solution

Remove heavily infested fronds and gently scrape or wipe scale from rhizomes and stems with a cotton pad dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol, taking care not to damage the fuzzy roots. Repeat wiping every 5–7 days for several cycles and improve air movement and light levels to support recovery; for persistent cases, use an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil labeled safe for ferns.

Mealybugs

These insects appear as white, cottony clusters in frond joints, along the fuzzy rhizomes, and in pot crevices, where they suck sap and stunt new growth. This pest often leads to distorted fronds and sticky honeydew deposits.

Solution

Isolate the plant, then use a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol to dab visible mealybugs, focusing on crevices and the base of fronds. Follow up with thorough sprays of insecticidal soap every 7–10 days, avoid spraying so heavily that the fronds remain wet for long periods, and rinse dust from foliage to reduce hiding places.

Fern aphids

These insects cluster on young fronds and undersides, feeding on sap and causing curling, distortion, and pale growth. Sticky honeydew and fine black sooty mold may appear on the fronds beneath the colonies.

Solution

Rinse the plant under a gentle, lukewarm shower to dislodge aphids, shielding the soil with plastic if needed to avoid waterlogging. After washing, apply insecticidal soap thoroughly to both sides of the fronds every 5–7 days until new growth emerges clean, and keep the plant in bright, indirect light to support strong, resilient foliage.

Bacterial leaf spot

This disease produces small, water-soaked, translucent spots on fronds that may expand, turn dark brown, and develop yellow halos. Symptoms include rapid spread under warm, humid, and poorly ventilated conditions, with fronds eventually collapsing if severely affected.

Solution

Remove and discard all affected fronds with clean, sterilized scissors and avoid overhead watering or misting that keeps foliage wet for long periods. Improve air circulation, reduce crowding with other plants, and water at the soil surface in the morning; if spread continues, consider discarding heavily infected plants to protect nearby ferns and use new, sterile potting mix for replacements.

Rhizome rot

This disease affects the fuzzy above-soil rhizomes, which become soft, dark, and foul-smelling instead of firm and gray-brown, often following chronic overwatering or poor drainage. Symptoms include sudden frond yellowing and collapse despite apparently moist soil.

Solution

Cut away all mushy, discolored rhizome sections with sterilized tools, saving only firm, healthy pieces, and repot into fresh, well-draining fern mix in a shallow container. Allow the mix to dry slightly between waterings, avoid water sitting in saucers, and maintain moderate humidity and good airflow to prevent reinfection and support growing hare's-foot fern.

Interesting Facts

Clinging rock specialist

This fern naturally grows as a lithophyte, anchoring its wiry rhizomes into cracks of volcanic and siliceous rock walls in the Canary Islands and Madeira, rather than mainly in soil like many other ferns.

Atlantic cloud forest relic

It is characteristic of Macaronesian laurel forests, where it exploits the constant trade-wind mists and high air humidity, making it an important indicator of these relict subtropical woodlands.

Exposed rhizome adaptation

The thick, hairy, above-ground rhizomes help reduce water loss and protect the plant when exposed on bare rock faces, allowing it to survive intermittent drying between periods of cloud and rain.

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Did you know?

In parts of its native Macaronesian range, this species can form dense, cascading mats on vertical cliff faces and ancient stone walls, visually tracing long-term patterns of moisture seepage and making it useful for identifying consistently damp microhabitats in rugged terrain.

FAQs about hare's-foot fern

Brown tips or fronds usually result from low humidity, inconsistent watering, or excess fertilizer salts. Dry indoor air, letting the root zone fully dry, or using hard tap water can all cause tissue damage and browning.

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