Is cultivated licorice edible?

The roots are edible and valued for their sweet flavor in herbal preparations, candies, and teas. Leaves and stems are not typically eaten. Use only correctly identified, pesticide-free plants and follow local guidelines for medicinal use.

Can cultivated licorice be grown from seeds?

Yes, but seeds need scarification or soaking in warm water to improve germination. Sow in a deep tray or pot, keep evenly moist, and transplant gently once roots are established; this supports reliable growing cultivated licorice from seed.

cultivated licorice Care (Glycyrrhiza glabra)

Also known as: licorice, Liquorice, Drop, Liquorice Root, Sweetwood

About cultivated licorice

Cultivated licorice, Glycyrrhiza glabra, is a hardy herbaceous perennial grown mainly for its sweet, aromatic roots. It forms clumps of upright stems with pinnate leaves and small pale flowers, followed by short pods.

In nature it occurs from the Mediterranean region through western and central Asia, usually in sunny, open habitats with deep, loose soils. The plant develops an extensive root and rhizome system, so it needs space and patience, as roots take several years to mature.

It is generally not difficult but requires full sun, consistent moisture, and well-drained, fertile soil. Understanding these basic needs provides a solid starting point on how to care for cultivated licorice.

Main Plant Requirements

Care Difficulty

Moderate Care

Light Preference

Full Sun

Water Requirements

Moderate Water

Temperature Preference

Cold Hardy

Hardiness Zone

6–9

Soil Texture

Sandy, Loamy, Organic-rich

Soil pH

Slightly acidic (6.5–7.0), Neutral (7.0)

Soil Drainage

Moist but well-drained

Fertilization

Minimal (feed rarely)

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How to Care for the cultivated licorice

This sun-loving perennial thrives in open, bright conditions for strong growth and root production.

Provide full sun for 6–8 hours daily; cultivated licorice tolerates light afternoon shade in hot summer regions.
Choose a site with unshaded morning sun; in very hot climates, offer filtered or dappled light after 2–3 p.m. to reduce leaf scorch.
Watch for weak, elongated stems and sparse foliage as signs of insufficient light; pale, crisped leaf edges suggest too much intense, dry sun.

This deep-rooted species prefers steady moisture but does not tolerate prolonged waterlogging.

Water when the top 3–5 cm of soil feels dry, aiming to keep the root zone evenly moist during active growth in spring and summer.
Ensure loose, well-drained soil; standing water or sour, swampy smell around roots indicates poor drainage and potential rot in Glycyrrhiza glabra.
In cooler months, reduce watering as growth slows; drooping, brittle leaves suggest underwatering, while yellowing, soft stems point to overwatering.

This hardy perennial tolerates a wide temperature range but performs best in moderate warmth.

Aim for active growth in 65–80°F (18–27°C); consistent warmth supports strong top growth and root development.
Dormant crowns survive winter cold to about 0°F (−18°C) in the ground, but repeated freeze–thaw cycles in poorly drained soil increase rot risk.
In hot summers above 90°F (32°C), growth may slow; provide mulch to cool the root zone and avoid planting in heat-trapping reflected-sun sites.

Humidity is not a critical factor for Glycyrrhiza glabra, which adapts well to typical outdoor air levels.

This species prefers deep, loose, well-drained soil that allows its long roots to extend freely.

Use a loamy or sandy-loam soil with moderate organic matter to keep the profile open and crumbly.
Aim for slightly acidic to neutral pH, around 6.0–7.5, which supports nutrient availability for this legume.
In garden beds, blend in compost and coarse sand or fine gravel to improve drainage and aeration, especially in heavier soils.
Avoid compacted clay, waterlogged spots, or shallow, stony ground that restricts root penetration and promotes rot.

This plant can be grown in containers but needs unusually deep, stable pots to accommodate its long roots and spreading growth habit.

Choose a container at least 35–45 cm deep so the taproot can develop without curling tightly at the base.
Select a heavy, stable pot material like thick terracotta or concrete to reduce tipping as the upper growth becomes dense.
Ensure multiple large drainage holes and keep the container slightly elevated so excess water exits quickly rather than pooling under the base.

Glycyrrhiza glabra benefits from modest, balanced feeding in reasonably fertile soil.

Use a balanced NPK fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) at half strength in spring as growth begins.
Apply a light topdressing of compost once per year to support root development and soil structure.
During the main growing season, feed every 4–6 weeks if soil is poor; skip feeding in fertile ground.
Stop fertilizing in late summer and avoid feeding through fall and winter dormancy.

Pruning Glycyrrhiza glabra is mainly done to maintain plant health and manage size.

Carry out pruning in late winter or very early spring before new shoots emerge.
Remove dead, damaged, or crossing stems with clean, sharp pruners to reduce disease entry points.
Thin crowded growth at the base to improve air movement and light penetration.
Light shaping cuts help keep stems upright and manageable without severely reducing flowering.

Transplanting this deep-rooted perennial focuses on minimizing disturbance to its spreading rhizomes.

Look for crowded clumps, reduced vigor, or roots circling in containers as signs it needs more space.
Schedule transplanting in early spring or early fall when temperatures are mild and moisture is reliable.
Move established plants only every several years, lifting with a wide root ball to keep rhizomes intact.
Replant at the same depth in loose, well-drained soil, water thoroughly, then shade briefly to reduce stress.

New plants are typically raised from rhizome divisions or seeds of Glycyrrhiza glabra.

Divide rhizomes in early spring or fall, keeping several buds per piece, and replant promptly in loose soil.
Sow seeds in late winter to spring, using a free-draining mix and consistent moisture at 65–75°F.
Scarify hard seed coats lightly with sandpaper to improve germination rates.
Provide bright, indirect light and avoid waterlogging to prevent rot during early establishment.

This hardy perennial usually needs minimal winter care in temperate climates.

Once frost blackens top growth, allow stems to die back naturally, then cut to ground level if desired.
Apply a 5–7 cm mulch layer over the root zone in colder regions to buffer freeze–thaw cycles.
For containers, move pots into a sheltered, unheated space where soil stays cold but does not freeze solid.

Overwatering

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Care Tips

Rhizome Containment

Plant licorice in a large, bottomless container sunk into the ground to keep its spreading rhizomes from invading nearby beds while still allowing deep root growth.

Root Harvest Timing

Schedule main root harvest in late autumn of the plant’s 3rd or 4th year, when top growth starts to yellow and the roots hold maximum stored starches and flavor.

Selective Root Digging

Use a digging fork instead of a shovel to loosen soil and lift sections of root carefully, leaving some healthy rhizomes in place so the stand regrows without full replanting.

Winter Crown Protection

In colder regions, apply a 5–8 cm layer of clean straw or shredded leaves over the crown in late fall to buffer freeze–thaw cycles and protect new buds.

Rotation And Renewal

After several years in one spot, reduce disease build‑up by moving the planting to fresh ground and using the vacated bed for unrelated crops, which is an important part of caring for cultivated licorice in small gardens.

Common Pests and Diseases

Licorice aphid

This pest is a small, soft-bodied insect that clusters on young shoots, leaf undersides, and flower spikes, sucking sap and weakening growth. Symptoms include curled or distorted leaves and sticky honeydew that can lead to sooty mold.

Solution

Spray colonies off stems with a firm stream of water, then treat remaining insects with insecticidal soap or a neem oil spray, repeating every 5–7 days until populations drop. Encourage natural predators such as lady beetles by avoiding broad-spectrum insecticides and reducing excess nitrogen fertilization that promotes lush, aphid-prone growth.

Licorice leaf miner

These insects are fly larvae that tunnel inside leaves, creating pale winding trails and blotches between the leaf surfaces. Symptoms include thin, papery areas on leaves and reduced photosynthesis if many mines are present.

Solution

Remove and dispose of mined leaves as soon as damage appears to reduce larval numbers and limit adult emergence. In larger plantings, floating row covers can help exclude adult flies, and targeted applications of neem-based products to young foliage can reduce new infestations while preserving beneficial insects involved in Glycyrrhiza glabra care.

Fusarium wilt

This disease is caused by soilborne fungi that invade the vascular tissues, blocking water transport. Symptoms include one-sided wilting, yellowing of lower leaves, and eventual collapse, often more severe in warm conditions and stressed plants.

Solution

Promptly remove and destroy severely affected plants and avoid replanting licorice in the same soil for several years. Improve drainage, avoid overwatering, and use clean tools and propagation material; in larger or commercial plantings, consider resistant or tolerant seed sources and soil solarization where practical.

Rhizoctonia crown and stem rot

This disease results from a soilborne fungus that attacks the crown and lower stems, especially in poorly drained or compacted soils. Symptoms include brown, sunken lesions at the soil line, lodging of stems, and decay of young roots and crowns.

Solution

Improve soil structure and drainage, avoid planting in cold, wet ground, and keep mulch slightly away from the crown to reduce prolonged moisture. Remove and discard affected plants and debris, and avoid overhead irrigation; crop rotation with non-host species over several years helps lower pathogen levels in production beds when growing cultivated licorice.

Interesting Facts

Sweetness far exceeds sugar

The main sweet compound in its roots, glycyrrhizin, tastes roughly 30–50 times sweeter than table sugar but is chemically a saponin, not a sugar.

Nitrogen-fixing legume shrub

This species forms root nodules with Rhizobium bacteria that convert atmospheric nitrogen into forms the plant can use, which can gradually enrich poor soils over time.

Ancient documented use

Dried roots of this plant are recorded in early medical texts from ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece, and China, where they were traded as a valued flavoring and herbal ingredient.

Did you know?

Chemical analysis of its roots shows more than 300 distinct compounds, which has made this species a long-standing model plant in research on natural sweeteners, stress tolerance, and plant–microbe interactions.

FAQs about cultivated licorice

This species spreads by deep, running rhizomes and can become wide-forming over time. In open ground it may wander several feet from the original planting, so use root barriers or containers if garden space is limited.