anu Care (Tropaeolum tuberosum)

Also known as: mashua
anu

About anu

Anu, or Tropaeolum tuberosum, is a perennial climbing plant grown mainly for its edible tubers and ornamental value. It belongs to the nasturtium family and forms twining stems with soft green leaves and tubular, often bicolored flowers.

This species is native to the cool highlands of the Andes, where it grows in open, sunny fields and cultivated terraces. In gardens, it tends to be vigorous but seasonal, dying back to its tubers in the dormant period.

Many gardeners find it moderately easy once the right conditions are provided. Understanding how to care for anu starts with knowing it prefers cool, bright conditions, free-draining soil, and consistent but not excessive moisture.

Main Plant Requirements

Care Difficulty

Moderate Care

Light Preference

Full Sun

Water Requirements

Regular Water

Temperature Preference

Cool Climate

Hardiness Zone

8–10

Soil Texture

Loamy, Sandy, Organic-rich

Soil pH

Acidic (5.5–6.5), Slightly acidic (6.5–7.0)

Soil Drainage

Moist but well-drained

Fertilization

Light (every 4–6 weeks)

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How to Care for the anu

Tropaeolum tuberosum prefers cool, bright conditions with several hours of direct sun daily for strong growth and flowering.

  • Provide 4–6 hours of direct morning sun, plus bright, filtered light in the afternoon; light afternoon shade protects leaves in hot summers.
  • Tolerates partial shade (around 3–4 hours of direct sun), but flowering and tuber production in anu decline if shade is too dense.
  • In cooler seasons or cloudy climates, choose the sunniest available spot so stems do not stretch and become weak from low light.

Tropaeolum tuberosum prefers evenly moist, cool soil but reacts poorly to standing water.

  • Water when the top 3–5 cm of soil feel dry, applying enough to moisten the root zone without leaving puddles on the surface.
  • Use loose, well‑drained soil or raised beds so excess water can escape; soggy soil causes yellowing foliage, soft stems, and rotting tubers.
  • In active growth, expect faster drying and more frequent watering; late-season leaf yellowing, wilting, and very dry soil indicate underwatering.

This species grows best in mild conditions and is sensitive to both hard frost and extreme heat.

  • Aim for 55–70°F (13–21°C) during active growth; cool nights within this range support strong vines and tuber formation.
  • Growth slows below 45°F (7°C) and foliage is damaged by frost; protect tubers if temperatures may drop below 32°F (0°C).
  • In hot spells above 80–85°F (27–29°C), provide mulch and some afternoon shade so the soil stays cooler and plants avoid heat stress.

Humidity plays a minor role for Tropaeolum tuberosum, which adapts well to typical outdoor air conditions.

  • Performs well at 30–60% humidity, similar to most temperate outdoor climates.
  • Tolerates relatively dry air if soil moisture is consistent and roots do not dry out completely.
  • Mild leaf edge browning or wilt on hot, windy days signals moisture stress; use mulch or a temporary windbreak rather than misting anu foliage.

Soil for Tropaeolum tuberosum must stay well drained yet evenly moist to support tuber formation.

  • Use a loose, loamy mix with high organic matter, such as garden loam amended with compost and coarse sand.
  • Ensure fast drainage; mix in 20–30% coarse sand or fine grit to prevent waterlogging around tubers.
  • Aim for slightly acidic to neutral pH, around 6.0–7.0, avoiding strongly alkaline or salty soils.
  • Avoid heavy, compacted clay; improve aeration by double-digging beds or incorporating chunky compost and leaf mold through the top 20–30 cm.

This species can be grown in containers if the pot is deep, stable, and drains quickly.

  • Choose a container at least 30–40 cm deep to allow tubers and roots to develop without constriction.
  • Use a heavy or weighted pot if using a trellis, so vigorous climbing growth does not tip the container.
  • Elevate the pot on feet or bricks so drainage holes stay clear and excess water can escape rapidly after rain or irrigation.

This tuber-forming climber benefits from modest, balanced feeding during active growth, while anu tubers dislike heavy fertilization.

  • Use a balanced liquid fertilizer (around 10-10-10) at half strength every 2–3 weeks during spring–summer growth.
  • Alternatively, apply a light layer of compost or a mild slow-release fertilizer at planting time.
  • Avoid high-nitrogen products that cause lush foliage with fewer tubers.
  • Stop feeding once foliage yellows and the plant approaches dormancy.

Pruning helps keep Tropaeolum tuberosum tidy, encourages flowering, and supports healthy tuber development.

  • In late winter or very early spring, remove any dead, damaged, or weak stems with clean, sharp pruners.
  • During the growing season, trim back excessively long or tangled shoots to maintain a manageable climbing shape.
  • Deadhead spent flowers to reduce seed set and direct energy back to tubers.
  • Disinfect tools before and after use to lower the risk of disease spread.

This climber is usually grown as a seasonal crop outdoors, so focus on careful transplanting and tuber lifting rather than frequent repotting.

  • Transplant or plant tubers in spring after frost when shoots emerge and roots start filling starter pots or trays.
  • Choose a sunny, well-drained site and loosen soil 20–30 cm deep to reduce transplant shock and waterlogging stress.
  • Lift and divide crowded clumps every 2–3 years, replanting only firm, healthy tubers.
  • Water thoroughly after transplanting, then keep soil evenly moist but not saturated until growth is established.

New plants are most reliably produced from tuber division, though stems and seed can also be used for Tropaeolum tuberosum plant care.

  • In late winter or early spring, divide dormant tubers, ensuring each piece has at least one healthy bud or eye.
  • Plant tubers 5–8 cm deep in loose, well-drained soil and keep evenly moist until sprouts appear.
  • For cuttings, take soft shoots in late spring, use rooting hormone, and place in a warm, bright, humid environment.
  • Sow fresh seed in spring in a free-draining mix at 60–70°F, providing bright light for steady germination.

This species is sensitive to hard frost above-ground, but its tubers can survive if the root zone is insulated or lifted.

  • In mild climates, allow foliage to die back naturally after light frost, then mulch the soil 5–10 cm deep.
  • In colder regions, dig up tubers after foliage blackens, dry them slightly, and store cool, dark, and frost-free.
  • For container plants, move pots indoors to a cool, bright, frost-free area and reduce watering to keep soil barely moist.

Care Tips

Provide climbing support

Install a sturdy trellis or netting at planting time so vines can climb freely, which improves light exposure, air flow, and tuber production.

Pinch for branching

Pinch out the soft tips of young vines once they reach 20–30 cm to encourage branching and more flowering shoots, which can increase overall tuber yield.

Staggered tuber lifting

Lift a few plants early in late autumn to check tuber maturity, then harvest the rest when skins are firm and well colored to balance flavor and storage quality.

Cure tubers properly

After harvest, cure tubers in a dark, dry, well-ventilated place at 50–60°F for 7–10 days before storage to toughen skins and reduce post-harvest rots when growing anu.

Use rotation and breaks

Avoid planting in the same bed for at least 3–4 years and follow it after other non-Brassicaceae crops to lower the risk of soil-borne diseases and nutrient imbalances.

Common Pests and Diseases

Aphids

This pest feeds on tender shoots, flower stalks, and the undersides of leaves, sucking sap and causing distortion and sticky honeydew. Symptoms include curling leaves, stunted growth, and sooty mold developing on the sugary deposits.

Solution

Spray plants with a firm stream of water to dislodge colonies, then treat remaining aphids with insecticidal soap or a neem oil spray, making sure to cover leaf undersides. Encourage natural predators such as lady beetles and avoid high nitrogen fertilization that promotes very soft, aphid-prone growth when trying to grow Tropaeolum tuberosum.

Nematode damage

This disease-like problem is caused by microscopic soil roundworms that attack the tubers and fine roots, creating swellings, cracks, and reduced plant vigor. Symptoms include poor top growth, small or misshapen tubers, and plants that wilt quickly in dry periods despite adequate watering.

Solution

Rotate plantings annually and avoid planting in beds with a known history of nematodes, especially after other susceptible crops like potatoes or tomatoes. Use clean, certified tubers, improve soil organic matter with compost to support beneficial organisms, and in severe cases consider a fallow period with non-host cover crops such as grasses to reduce nematode populations.

Virus mosaic

This disease causes mottled, streaked, or distorted foliage and can reduce flowering and tuber yield. Symptoms include pale or yellow mosaic patterns on leaves, twisted shoots, and generally weak, uneven growth.

Solution

Remove and destroy any plants showing strong mosaic or distortion symptoms, and control sucking insects such as aphids that spread viruses between plants. Always start with healthy, virus-free planting tubers and avoid handling plants when foliage is wet to reduce mechanical spread between plants.

Leaf spot

This disease produces small, dark, often circular lesions on leaves that may expand, dry out, and lead to premature leaf drop, especially in cool, damp weather. Symptoms include scattered brown or tan spots, sometimes with yellow halos, and a general thinning of the canopy from affected leaves falling early.

Solution

Improve air circulation by spacing plants correctly and avoiding overhead watering, especially late in the day, so foliage dries quickly. Remove heavily spotted leaves, keep the area free of fallen debris, and if the problem recurs annually consider applying a preventive copper- or sulfur-based fungicide according to label directions during prolonged wet periods.

Caterpillars

These insects chew irregular holes or entire leaf sections, sometimes defoliating plants quickly when populations are high. Symptoms include ragged leaf edges, frass (dark pellets) on foliage, and in severe cases skeletonized leaves that reduce plant vigor and tuber formation.

Solution

Handpick visible caterpillars in the early morning or evening and remove heavily damaged leaves to reduce feeding. For ongoing problems, use a biological control such as Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) targeted at young larvae, and protect nearby flowering plants that support natural predators like birds and parasitic wasps.

Interesting Facts

Ancient Andean crop

This species has been cultivated in the Andes for centuries for its edible tubers, especially in Peru and Bolivia, where it is traditionally grown at high elevations above 3,000 m.

Edible peppery tubers

The knobbly tubers are eaten cooked and develop a mild, slightly sweet, peppery taste after exposure to sunlight post-harvest, a practice Andean farmers use to reduce bitterness.

Photoperiod sensitive flowering

This plant initiates tuber formation and flowering only when days become shorter, which is why it produces reliable yields mainly in regions with marked seasonal day-length changes and long, cool growing seasons.

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Did you know?

In traditional Andean agriculture, this plant is often grown in mixed fields with potatoes and other native tuber crops, helping diversify harvests and spread the risk of crop failure in harsh high-altitude climates.

FAQs about anu

The tubers are edible once cooked and are traditionally used as a root vegetable in Andean cuisine. Raw tubers taste sharp and are usually sun-cured or boiled to reduce bitterness before eating.

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