field pennycress Care (Thlaspi arvense)

Also known as: Penny Cress, Fanweed, French Weed, Mithridate Mustard
field pennycress

About field pennycress

Field pennycress (Thlaspi arvense) is a small annual herb in the mustard family, often found in fields, roadsides, and disturbed soils. It forms upright stems with small white flowers and distinctive flat, round seed pods that resemble tiny coins.

This species is native to Eurasia but is now widespread across North America as both a wild plant and an emerging cover crop. It grows quickly, tolerates poor soils, and self-seeds readily, which makes it easy to establish but sometimes weedy. In general, it prefers full sun, moderately moist soil, and good drainage, and these basics help guide how to care for field pennycress.

Main Plant Requirements

Care Difficulty

Easy Care

Light Preference

Full Sun

Water Requirements

Moderate Water

Temperature Preference

Cold Hardy

Hardiness Zone

3–8

Soil Texture

Sandy, Loamy, Clay

Soil pH

Slightly acidic (6.5–7.0), Slightly alkaline (7.0–7.5)

Soil Drainage

Well-drained

Fertilization

Minimal (feed rarely)

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How to Care for the field pennycress

This annual prefers open, bright positions typical of agricultural fields and disturbed ground.

  • Provide 6–8 hours of direct sun daily; morning to early afternoon sun supports compact growth and abundant flowering in field pennycress.
  • It tolerates light partial shade (3–4 hours direct sun) but stems may elongate and seed set can decrease in denser shade.
  • In hot summers, avoid intense reflected heat and late afternoon scorch by using slight shelter from walls or bare rock, especially on south- or west-facing slopes.

This species is adapted to relatively dry, well-drained soils and does not need frequent irrigation once established.

  • Before watering, let the top 3–5 cm of soil dry; foliage wilting at midday that recovers by evening usually reflects normal heat stress, not a need for water.
  • Use free-draining mineral or loamy soil so excess water runs off quickly; persistent puddling or sour smell indicates poor drainage and risk of root rot in Thlaspi arvense.
  • During cool seasons, rainfall often suffices; in hot, dry spells, irrigate deeply but infrequently, then wait until lower leaves just begin to soften or curl slightly.

This cool-season annual is quite hardy and thrives in temperate climates with cold winters.

  • Optimal growth occurs around 50–68°F (10–20°C), especially in early spring and fall, when vegetative growth and flowering are most vigorous.
  • Mature plants tolerate down to about 10–15°F (-12 to -9°C); rosettes and seeds overwinter under snow or light frost without protection in most temperate regions.
  • Heat above 86°F (30°C) can shorten the life cycle; expect quicker bolting and seed ripening, and use soil moisture and light mulch to reduce heat stress where summers are hot.

Humidity is not a major factor for Thlaspi arvense, which adapts well to typical outdoor air levels.

Thlaspi arvense prefers mineral, well-drained ground and tolerates relatively poor soils if not waterlogged.

  • Use a sandy or sandy-loam texture with low to moderate organic matter so water drains within a few hours after rain.
  • Aim for slightly alkaline to neutral pH around 7.0–8.0, adding garden lime if the site is notably acidic.
  • In heavier clay soils, mix in coarse sand or fine gravel at 25–40% by volume to improve aeration and reduce compaction.
  • Avoid boggy spots, areas with standing water, or mixes dominated by peat that stay wet and exclude air from the roots.

This species can be grown in containers, mainly for experimental, ornamental, or breeding uses rather than long-term display.

  • Choose a pot at least 20–25 cm deep to allow its taproot to develop without curling at the base.
  • Use a heavier material such as clay when growing outdoors so wind is less likely to tip the pot during rapid top growth.
  • Raise the container slightly on pot feet or bricks so drainage holes stay clear and excess rainwater exits quickly.

This annual generally needs little feeding, especially in fertile garden soil.

  • In poor or sandy soils, apply a light dressing of compost before sowing to support early growth.
  • If needed, use a balanced NPK fertilizer at 1/2 strength once during early vegetative growth for field pennycress.
  • Avoid repeated applications; excess nutrients can cause lush foliage with weaker stems and fewer seeds.
  • Do not feed in late fall or winter, when plants are not actively growing.

Pruning for Thlaspi arvense is minimal and mainly supports tidy growth and seed management.

  • Use clean scissors or hand pruners to remove dead, diseased, or storm-damaged stems whenever noticed.
  • Cut back crowded or sprawling plants after flowering to reduce self-seeding and maintain a neater patch.
  • Deadhead spent seed pods if seed production is not desired, trimming stems just above healthy foliage.
  • Leave some seed stalks standing if natural reseeding or wildlife value is a goal.

This species is usually grown in the ground or as a short-term cover crop rather than as a long-term container plant.

  • Transplant Thlaspi arvense outdoors in early spring or early fall, when temperatures are mild and soil is workable.
  • Move seedlings when they have 2–3 true leaves, handling by the leaves, not the delicate stems, to limit damage.
  • Water the planting area first, then transplant into loosened soil and firm gently around roots to remove air pockets.
  • Shade lightly and keep soil evenly moist for 3–5 days after transplanting to reduce root stress and wilting.

New plants are most commonly raised from seed rather than by vegetative methods.

  • Sow fresh seeds of Thlaspi arvense in fall for natural cold exposure, or in very early spring outdoors.
  • Prepare a fine, well-drained seedbed; press seeds onto the surface and cover with a thin layer of soil or sand.
  • Keep soil evenly moist and cool; germination usually occurs once temperatures are consistently above freezing.
  • Allow some plants to flower and set seed, then self-sow, if a naturalized stand is desired.

This cold-hardy annual typically needs little dedicated winter care in temperate climates.

  • Established plants and overwintering rosettes tolerate frost and light freezes without extra protection.
  • In exposed sites, a thin mulch layer around the base helps buffer soil temperature and reduce heaving.
  • Container-grown plants in very cold regions can be moved to an unheated garage or cold frame to avoid root damage.

Care Tips

Staggered Succession Sowing

Sow small patches every 2–3 weeks in early spring and again in late summer so that flowering and seed set are spread out, which stabilizes self-seeding and reduces bare periods in the bed.

Volunteer Seedling Management

Flag one or two zones where self-sown seedlings are allowed to mature and promptly hoe out or hand-pull volunteers elsewhere to prevent unwanted spread while still benefiting from natural reseeding when growing field pennycress.

Seed Harvest Timing

For clean seed collection, cut stems when most seed pods have turned tan but before they shatter, then dry the stems upside down on a tarp or in paper bags in a shaded, airy place before threshing.

Shallow Mechanical Weed Control

Control weeds between rows with a sharp stirrup hoe or collinear hoe kept at 0.5–1 cm depth, which protects the relatively shallow roots while reducing competition for light and nutrients.

Rotation With Broadleaf Crops

Avoid planting in the same spot immediately before or after other brassicas; rotate with grasses or legumes for at least 2–3 years to lower pressure from brassica-specific pests and soil-borne diseases.

Everything About field pennycress

Common Pests and Diseases

Flea beetles

This pest feeds on young leaves and seedlings, causing many small round holes that can severely weaken plants at early stages. Symptoms include shot-hole damage and slow or stunted growth in dense stands.

Solution

Use floating row covers to physically exclude adults from seedlings, and keep surrounding areas free of brassica weeds that harbor beetles. For established patches, encourage natural predators and, if needed, apply a targeted spinosad or pyrethrin spray to foliage in the evening, following label directions and avoiding application during bloom to protect pollinators.

Cabbage aphids

These insects cluster on stems, young leaves, and flowering shoots, sucking sap and causing curling, yellowing, and sticky honeydew deposits. Heavy infestations can distort seed heads and reduce vigor.

Solution

Remove heavily infested shoots and dispose of them away from the planting area, then wash remaining plants with a firm stream of water to dislodge colonies. In small plantings, encourage lady beetles and other predators, and if needed use an insecticidal soap spray that thoroughly coats aphids, repeating as populations reappear.

White blister rust

This disease causes pale or yellow spots on upper leaf surfaces with white blister-like pustules on the undersides. In favorable moist, cool conditions it can lead to premature leaf drop and reduced seed production.

Solution

Remove and destroy infected leaves as soon as pustules appear and avoid overhead irrigation that keeps foliage wet for long periods. Maintain good spacing and airflow, reduce nearby brassica weed hosts, and in recurrent problem sites rotate away from susceptible brassicaceae for at least 2–3 years.

Downy mildew

This disease produces yellow to light-green angular spots on upper leaf surfaces and a grayish or purplish downy growth beneath. In severe infections, leaves may wither early, weakening plants and lowering seed yield.

Solution

Improve airflow by avoiding dense, overcrowded stands and irrigate at soil level rather than over the foliage. Remove and destroy the most affected plants, and practice crop rotation and sanitation by clearing brassica residues after harvest to lower inoculum in future seasons.

Interesting Facts

Early spring colonizer

Field pennycress often germinates in late summer or fall, overwinters as a rosette, and is among the first annuals to bolt and set seed in spring, giving it a strong advantage in disturbed fields and roadsides.

Distinctive penny seedpods

The plant produces flat, round, winged seedpods with a deep notch at the tip, which inspired the common name pennycress and makes it easy to distinguish from many other mustard family weeds.

Biofuel research model

Field pennycress is being actively studied as an oilseed crop for aviation biofuel because its seeds contain high levels of oil and can be grown as a winter cover crop between main cash crops.

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Did you know?

Field pennycress is a hyperaccumulator candidate for some metals, and has been investigated for phytoremediation, where plants are used to extract contaminants from polluted soils.

FAQs about field pennycress

The leaves, young shoots, and seeds are technically edible but taste pungent and can accumulate heavy metals from contaminated soils. Use only plants from clean sites, in small amounts, and avoid foraging near roads, industry, or treated fields.

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